Showing posts with label Old San Juan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Old San Juan. Show all posts

Friday, March 15, 2013

Anniversary Cruise! Puerto Rico, Day 3



If you're looking for a place to stay that's convenient, the Hampton Inn (where we stayed) in Isla Verde (Carolina) is more than adequate. It offers all the amenities we need. Clean, comfortable, spacious rooms. A breakfast that is plentiful and delicious. An inviting swimming pool with a swim-up bar and outdoor grill restaurant, with plenty of thickly padded lounge chairs if you're going to be swimming and sunning yourself. An exercise room. A laundry room. An office room. And probably lots of other meeting rooms and things we didn't care about at all. The folks at the front desk were helpful, knowledgeable, and friendly.

It's close to the airport but well sound-proofed, and it's just a couple of short blocks from the beautiful Isla Verde Beach. Isla Verde used to be kind of a “second cousin” to the Condado Strip. Nice and all, but one step removed. Funny how things change and evolve over the years. As mentioned in the Day 2 post, the neighborhood includes the El San Juan Hotel. It also includes the Ritz Carlton and a number of other low-rent places.

The lagoon from high up!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
So, in the morning, Bob and Karen arrived to pick us up and suggested that we spend the day at their place, the Conrad Condado. There's a lagoon there for snorkeling practice, a salt water pool, a swim-up bar, and all the goodies. It was an offer we couldn't refuse!

The Conrad was decorated very retro tropical. It felt like Havana in a weird sort of way. Well, not that I've been to Havana [sure would like to, though], but it was how I imagined it to be. The furniture was retro ultra-modern, '60s or '70s looking, and so were the lamps. The lobby offered aqua and red and blue lighting accents. Bob and Karen said they thought it was kind of over the top kitschy, but I thought it was awesome. Maybe because it had a back in time quality and reminded me of the décor way back when, but it was new. It made me feel happy and lighthearted and relaxed. Perhaps that's what the hotel had in mind.
The pink building said "Miami." Fitting, no?

Bob and Karen's room was on the 10th floor and afforded an admirable panoramic view of the city. We all changed into our bathing suits and headed down to the poolside area, where the view was of the Old San Juan walls on the other side of the lagoon. Waves were crashing against the barrier rocks. It was gorgeous.

We slathered on the SPF55. Whatever you do, don't forget the sunblock. You don't want to ruin your vacation with a painful burn. We donned our snorkel gear and headed to the beach by the lagoon, where Bob gave me some snorkeling tips. It would be the first time I had snorkeled in almost 40 years, the last time having also been in Puerto Rico. It seemed poetic, somehow.

The waves outside the lagoon crashed on the rocks.
Awesome.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
I ventured into the water accompanied by Karen, and Bob went out with Harry. Was I going to gag on the mouthpiece? Would my mask leak? Would I move my fins like crazy, yet go backwards? Would I panic and sink to the depths of the lagoon (Okay, it wasn't that deep. Still...)? These were actual, real concerns that tried to interfere with my exhilaration at finally doing this again. No worries! Karen said I took to it like a duck to water, like I'd been doing it for years. I'm not the world's strongest swimmer, but I didn't even need to use the floatie I had borrowed. It was no problem at all, and I loved it. The water wasn't very clear (Bob talked of Rarotonga. We talked of Bonaire...), but there were enough beautiful, colorful fish and interesting sea creatures to keep me out there exploring. Apparently, there was an unfortunate oil spill in the '90s that knocked out the reef (very sad indeed), and they have put little “condos” out there for the fish to hide in. It's kind of cute. We saw blue fish with yellow fins, yellow and black striped fish, little neon looking fish, silver striped long fish, disc-shaped ones, etc. It was tons of fun. The sun kissed me a little in spite of the sunblock, but not so much as to cause pain.

So, we snorkeled around noon, took a break, gleefully slid down the water slide like a bunch of kids, had a pina colada, had a rest on the beach in the shade, then went snorkeling for another hour and a half or two. Nobody could get me out of the water. I was in love.

We showered and washed the sand out of our hair, and then we went walking down Condado in search of some FOOD. It's amazing how hungry I was. I could have eaten a horse.

On our way to dinner, Harry decided he'd like to try a ride
on this nifty thing. But it was a police vehicle. Oops!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
We decided on Bueno Ayres, an Argentinian steak house. Harry's steak and my chicken were both delicious, plentiful, and perfectly prepared, with the edge going to Harry's steak. But only because steak trumps chicken! We also had fried sweet plantain (surprise!), which was yummy. The waiter said it was the second-best in all of Puerto Rico. We thought that was kind of a weird thing for him to say, and then we realized that, of course, his own mother makes the first-best! For dessert, we enjoyed a light and flavorful cheese flan. The sangria was outstanding, and the coffee was absolutely spectacular.

It was a great day for all of us. We felt as if we were vacationing. Because we were!

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Anniversary Cruise! Puerto Rico, Day 1

It was wet. Very wet.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.,

We disembarked in San Juan a tiny bit behind schedule, which was okay for a couple of reasons. First, that's just how it is, and there's nothing to be done about it. Second, bridge construction and heavy rains were making it difficult for Bob and Karen to make it to the pier to pick us up. They had arrived in San Juan the day before and were staying at the Conrad Condado, which was visible from the ship. They just couldn't get from Point A to Point B.

It's raining. The wind is blowing a gale.
It's all good.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
There was no immediate area for them to park and wait for us. The deluge continued. It was pouring buckets. Cats and dogs. Like in a movie about jungle survival. After multiple back-and-forth cell phone calls [Our cell phones worked there without having international calling], it seemed best for them to “accidentally” pull in where the motor coaches were loading up the passengers who were going on tours or to the airport. The driving rain was showing no signs of easing, and things were starting to flood. A puddle climbed onto the sidewalk and inched its way towards me. We were soaked, but it was a warm rain. The air temperature was very comfortable, so, no problem!

Old San Juan
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
As soon as we left the loading area, the rain slowed. What a relief! We dropped our luggage off at the Conrad and went straight to Old San Juan. The bright colors, the lace balconies, the cobbled streets. We loved it! Oh, my, the memories came flooding back from the 40-year-old mental file cabinets.

El Morro
Photo by Chris.
All rights reserved.
We visited Castillo San Felipe delMorro (“El Morro”). In the 16th Century, construction began on this fortress designed to protect San Juan. It is a World Heritage Site, and it is a must-see destination while in Puerto Rico. If you listen very carefully, you can hear the footsteps of the sentries over the centuries. You might even see Sir Francis Drake's ship offshore in his failed attempt to attack San Juan. What a magnificent fortification, with walls around the old city. So colonial and charming and very old.

And such a tremendous lack of parking on the streets of Old San Juan. Up one street, down the other. Not a parking spot to be found. And then, behind the museum, we came upon an enterprising fellow making a few bucks in tips to help folks like us find a spot. Voila! Just like magic.

Enjoying a Pina Colada.
(All rights reserved.)
We happened to saunter by Barrachina. It's about a block from the governor's mansion, La Fortaleza, and it's the restaurant where the Pina Colada was originally created and served. At least, that's their story, and they're sticking to it. In such a circumstance, what can a thirsty traveler do? Exactly.

And then we walked and walked some more. What a beautiful and exotic place. And what a small world: We ran into the couple from St. Kitts we'd met on the ship, and they enthusiastically told Bob and Karen how wonderful the snorkeling is there and how fabulous the water is. Note to self: Go to St. Kitts someday!

Please don't feed them. It only encourages them.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.
It was starting to get a bit late in the afternoon, so we retrieved the luggage and started the trek to “our” place...the Hampton Inn. It took absolutely forever in the traffic on the surface streets, and I felt so bad for Bob and Karen. What a drag. There is a freeway that gets you from Point A to Point B in 10 or 15 minutes, but we couldn't find it. Note to self: Check the map next time.

We were pretty hungry by the time we got to Isla Verde. Right across the street from the Hampton Inn, there was a little place called Platino's that offered authentic Puerto Rican cuisine. I was expecting homestyle food of the type I used to eat at lunchtime in Luquillo between shifts at CarlinManufacturing many moons ago, and this was considerably more upscale. But it was still Arroz con Pollo and beans and tostones [fried plantain]. I was a happy camper, and it was only the end of Day One on the island.