Anniversary Cruise! Puerto Rico, Day 4

Seven Seas Beach, Fajardo PR. It was low tide.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Suddenly, it was our last full day in Puerto Rico. Vacations go by much too quickly! So, we packed up our beach gear and headed to Seven Seas Beach in Fajardo. We lived in Fajardo for a couple of years and never went to Seven Seas. Who knew?! It's a beautiful beach, but there was quite a bit of trash in the water. The wind must have blown it in on a breezy day? This particular day, however, was absolutely perfect.

Parking was easy, and there weren't very many people on the beach. Nice! We swam all the way out to the buoys [“Caution! Do not swim past this point!”] in search of tropical fishies, and we did find a big starfish and some other sea life swimming here and there. But mostly we found sea grass. Sand-covered sea grass. Where was the fabulous reef action we had read about, we wondered? And then we discovered it. Right next to the sandy beach in the shallow water! We laughed about that, for sure. We thought it would be farther offshore.

Seven Seas Beach, Fajardo PR
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

There was an area next to the boat launch [hence the caution against swimming past the buoys] that was a teeming fish nursery, a bonanza of baby fishies of all colors and formations and conformations. We moved down the beach and saw larger fish darting here and there, and all of us saw a barracuda...except me, but that's okay! I was too busy looking at the pretty colors, I guess. The water clarity was not great. Bob said he would rate it as two out of ten. Could have just been that day, though, as so many things (including the weather) can affect water clarity. I didn't know the difference and was only barely able to imagine the fabulous clarity he described in other places.

Bob and I took a walk down the beach to find some seashells for his friends who especially appreciate such souvenirs. We found some nice ones for them, and I hope they liked them.

Fishing village - Las Croabas PR
Photo by chris. All rights reserved.

The afternoon was winding down. We went for one more snorkel, did our best to get the sand off with the trickle of water at the showers outside the restrooms, and got ready to go on a kayak trip to Laguna Grande, the large bioluminescent lagoon. Who knew all this great stuff was in Fajardo? I wonder what else we missed while living here? I guess we were too busy working. There are probably a lot of things back home that I haven't seen and done, too. Take advantage of sights and activities right where you are.

A smiling, helpful, friendly crew member getting ready to
unload the kayaks. Pure Adventure rocks!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We had a snack at the docks in Las Croabas and had the great good luck of having been able to follow the kayak truck when we left the beach parking lot. So, we had no trouble at all finding our tour company, Pure Adventure. I'd never kayaked before, so it was an adventure going through the mangrove forest at dusk, especially while battling the current. We went sideways and backwards and all kinds of crazy things! The lagoon was so much fun. You dip your oar in, and it lights up with the organisms in the water. The resulting cascade of water when you lift your oar out of the water glows and lights up. You put your hand in the water and swish it around, and the water lights up. Apparently, Laguna Grande is even better than Mosquito Bay, Vieques. But I haven't been there (yet) and can't say for sure.

And it was time to go back through the mangrove forest. This time, though, it was pitch dark. We tried to follow the tiny, flashing light of the kayak ahead of us. Happily, the current was with us instead of against us this time, but the lead kayak kept going sideways into the mangroves. It was exciting and a little nerve making. I imagined snakes hanging down from the trees, their heads swaying this way and that, waiting to drop onto us in the kayak. I wasn't too sure we were going to make it back to the docks. Harry's seat had decided to refuse to keep him in a sitting position, so we were doing our very best to keep our kayak headed in the right direction at an even pace. Remember: It was pitch dark. We couldn't see anything but the very small beacon on the next kayak. Oh, wow! On, wow! What an adventure! But we made it. We only hit one object, an anchored rowboat. We didn't see it at all until we bumped into it, as we were blinded by the bright blue light onshore. Once your eyes have adapted to the darkness, even dim lights are blinding.

And then it was back to the hotel to pack, too soon. Just like the cruise, which takes a couple of days to settle into and then is suddenly over, these few days on the Isle of Enchantment have flown by. Just when you figure out where things are and the way things are done, and you're really enjoying yourself, it's time to go home.

On the other hand, we never found ourselves with more time than activities to fill it. Better to leave wanting more than to wish you could leave early. Which, come to think of it, is highly unlikely.

And just like that, it's over.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Note: Driving in Puerto Rico is not for sissies or people who get excited and upset. Thanks for driving, Bob. I think I would still be sitting at an intersection somewhere, waiting for folks to stop running red lights. Yikes!

Another note: When going to public beaches and such places here where the restrooms are likely to be questionable, you might want to consider having some toilet paper, wipes, and hand sanitizer with you instead of back at the hotel. And here, I think of my friend Cathy with great fondness. Cathy would have been totally prepared. She is Wonder Woman. She thinks of everything. I have a great respect for that. I do well to just think of the next thing. Unfortunately, I generally think of the next thing while I'm on my way to it rather than ahead of time. We are all gifted in different ways.

Anniversary Cruise! Puerto Rico, Day 3

If you're looking for a place to stay that's convenient, the Hampton Inn (where we stayed) in Isla Verde (Carolina) is more than adequate. It offers all the amenities we need. Clean, comfortable, spacious rooms. A breakfast that is plentiful and delicious. An inviting swimming pool with a swim-up bar and outdoor grill restaurant, with plenty of thickly padded lounge chairs if you're going to be swimming and sunning yourself. An exercise room. A laundry room. An office room. And probably lots of other meeting rooms and things we didn't care about at all. The folks at the front desk were helpful, knowledgeable, and friendly.

It's close to the airport but well sound-proofed, and it's just a couple of short blocks from the beautiful Isla Verde Beach. Isla Verde used to be kind of a “second cousin” to the Condado Strip. Nice and all, but one step removed. Funny how things change and evolve over the years. As mentioned in the Day 2 post, the neighborhood includes the El San Juan Hotel. It also includes the Ritz Carlton and a number of other low-rent places.

The lagoon from high up!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

So, in the morning, Bob and Karen arrived to pick us up and suggested that we spend the day at their place, the Conrad Condado. There's a lagoon there for snorkeling practice, a salt water pool, a swim-up bar, and all the goodies. It was an offer we couldn't refuse!

The Conrad was decorated very retro tropical. It felt like Havana in a weird sort of way. Well, not that I've been to Havana [sure would like to, though], but it was how I imagined it to be. The furniture was retro ultra-modern, '60s or '70s looking, and so were the lamps. The lobby offered aqua and red and blue lighting accents. Bob and Karen said they thought it was kind of over the top kitschy, but I thought it was awesome. Maybe because it had a back in time quality and reminded me of the décor way back when, but it was new. It made me feel happy and lighthearted and relaxed. Perhaps that's what the hotel had in mind.

The pink building said "Miami." Fitting, no?

Bob and Karen's room was on the 10^th floor and afforded an admirable panoramic view of the city. We all changed into our bathing suits and headed down to the poolside area, where the view was of the Old San Juan walls on the other side of the lagoon. Waves were crashing against the barrier rocks. It was gorgeous.

We slathered on the SPF55. Whatever you do, don't forget the sunblock. You don't want to ruin your vacation with a painful burn. We donned our snorkel gear and headed to the beach by the lagoon, where Bob gave me some snorkeling tips. It would be the first time I had snorkeled in almost 40 years, the last time having also been in Puerto Rico. It seemed poetic, somehow.

The waves outside the lagoon crashed on the rocks.
Awesome.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I ventured into the water accompanied by Karen, and Bob went out with Harry. Was I going to gag on the mouthpiece? Would my mask leak? Would I move my fins like crazy, yet go backwards? Would I panic and sink to the depths of the lagoon (Okay, it wasn't that deep. Still...)? These were actual, real concerns that tried to interfere with my exhilaration at finally doing this again. No worries! Karen said I took to it like a duck to water, like I'd been doing it for years. I'm not the world's strongest swimmer, but I didn't even need to use the floatie I had borrowed. It was no problem at all, and I loved it. The water wasn't very clear (Bob talked of Rarotonga. We talked of Bonaire...), but there were enough beautiful, colorful fish and interesting sea creatures to keep me out there exploring. Apparently, there was an unfortunate oil spill in the '90s that knocked out the reef (very sad indeed), and they have put little “condos” out there for the fish to hide in. It's kind of cute. We saw blue fish with yellow fins, yellow and black striped fish, little neon looking fish, silver striped long fish, disc-shaped ones, etc. It was tons of fun. The sun kissed me a little in spite of the sunblock, but not so much as to cause pain.

So, we snorkeled around noon, took a break, gleefully slid down the water slide like a bunch of kids, had a pina colada, had a rest on the beach in the shade, then went snorkeling for another hour and a half or two. Nobody could get me out of the water. I was in love.

We showered and washed the sand out of our hair, and then we went walking down Condado in search of some FOOD. It's amazing how hungry I was. I could have eaten a horse.

On our way to dinner, Harry decided he'd like to try a ride
on this nifty thing. But it was a police vehicle. Oops!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We decided on Bueno Ayres, an Argentinian steak house. Harry's steak and my chicken were both delicious, plentiful, and perfectly prepared, with the edge going to Harry's steak. But only because steak trumps chicken! We also had fried sweet plantain (surprise!), which was yummy. The waiter said it was the second-best in all of Puerto Rico. We thought that was kind of a weird thing for him to say, and then we realized that, of course, his own mother makes the first-best! For dessert, we enjoyed a light and flavorful cheese flan. The sangria was outstanding, and the coffee was absolutely spectacular.

It was a great day for all of us. We felt as if we were vacationing. Because we were!

Western Caribbean Cruise - Roatan, Honduras

Wednesday

Tropical lushness
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

After an beautiful and calm overnight sail from Cozumel, here we are, approaching Roatan. It is a verdant island, all green and lush, with homes dotting the hillsides. Some of these homes are palatial. They do not necessarily belong to the locals, just sayin'.

The sea here is absolutely fabulous and clear. You can see all the way to the bottom, and I keep hearing “Under the Sea” from “The Little Mermaid” going through my head as I look over the railing, straight down though the crystal turquoise to the fish swimming around in the coral way below. Wow.

The water was very clear.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Today, we've decided to get off the ship and wander about. We are greeted by the ever-present “special moments” ship's photographers who seem to be by the gangway all the time, snapping your photo as you arrive at your fabulous destination-du-jour. The photos will be displayed in the photographer's lobby on the Promenade Deck, where you'll also find a most excellent specialty Italian restaurant. There's a modest but worthwhile additional fee to eat there, which is a recommended “at least once” treat to enjoy on the cruise. Back to the pictures. Photos are taken of you at embarkation (where you'll look really happy but awfully tired from the flight), at each destination, on formal nights, at various activities. Obviously, the photographers want to sell their portraits. But here's a little hint: Don't buy them separately, because, oh, say, on Thursday, there'll be a special sale. That would be because, as I said, the photographers want to sell the pictures! But do keep track of yours so you can select your favorites to purchase. The charge, of course, will be added to your tab. Along with your bar purchases, selections at the ship's store, massages, haircuts, mani-pedis, off-ship excursions, and so forth. So, do keep checking your tab to make sure you aren't spending over your own sort-of-preset limit. We want to avoid unpleasant surprises, yes?

The welcoming committee.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We had our photo taken, watched the welcoming local musical group and dancers for a while...very exotic...and noticed an internet cafe just outside the gates. There were actually a number of internet cafes, at least one on every block. Not the most trust-inducing places, if you ask me, but if you must log on, you must log on. Or something.

Looks trustworthy, eh?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We shopped for hand-made, local souvenirs (sarongs, pine baskets, bracelets) to help out the local artisans. Can I just say, the poverty I saw was appalling. In such a lovely place, rich in natural beauty, with plenty to eat, it's hard to imagine why there would be policemen dressed in camouflage and carrying automatic weapons everywhere, in twos and threes. 

Makes you want to adopt a family, doesn't it?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

But it's easy to see that the people are exploited and poor. The smell of sewage and rotting things permeates the air, and there's a hollow look in the eyes. The look of despair and anger and bitterness. I understand that it's all completely different in the areas where the huge resort complexes are, on the other side of the island. You know, where these people work. For practically free.

(Steamy camera lens.)
Doing our bit for local economy.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

It was hot in Cozumel, but it is stinking hot and humid here. My camera lens kept fogging up. Quick! A cold drink! And, indeed, it was possible to purchase a local beer and sit on a little dock overlooking the beautiful sea and lovely scenery for very little money. If you stay in the designated tourist areas, you'll be fine. Truly, the folks appreciate your patronage and will do everything possible to help you and your cash to separate. But do stay in the designated tourist areas. If you wander off (as I did), you may not feel comfortable with the looks you'll get. Half a block off the beaten path was all it took to make me turn around and go back. Things may have changed and improved, but...be safe.

This is the grocery store.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I'd love to see Roatan again and explore the other parts of the island. It truly is beautiful, with amazing snorkeling and diving and lush vegetation. Cozumel was in a foreign land, but Roatan felt like a different world entirely. It's exotic. If you're looking for a place to go on your next good-will mission, you might consider Roatan.

We returned to the ship, where we were welcomed by the crew, went for a quick swim, and prepared for dinner and a show. You get used to the service very quickly, I noticed. At least, I sure did. The way the ship's crew caters to you is just like having servants or something. At least, I imagine so, as I wouldn't actually know. “Yes, madame.” (That's “madame” pronounced the French way, not “madam” or “ma'am.”) “Madame desires [fill in the blank]?” “Please, madame is not eating enough. Would madame like something different?” [Not eating enough?! Are they kidding?! I'm using the stairs instead of the elevators in hopes of not gaining 50 lbs.!] The service is really a “wow” experience. I could get used to this, but I'd better not.

Do I look relaxed yet?
The sarong was a gift from Karen when she
and Bob went to Bora Bora. I take it on every
trip, until I get to see Bora Bora myself.
Flip flops? Aruba trip gift from Cathy K.
Shell necklace? Gift from Hawaii.
Coral bracelets? Gift to self from a woman
combing the beach for tiny bits in Aruba.
Photo by Harry. All rights reserved.

Part of the fun of cruising, I may have mentioned once or twice already, is the nightly entertainment. The revues are excellent and not like local theater or high school musicals at all. It's really more like Vegas, and it's all included in your fare! The auditorium is always full, and you do have to show up a little early if you want a prime seating location.

Wait staff come by every few minutes to make sure you are provided with your libation of choice. Alcohol is not included, don't forget, and that bar tab to your room can add up pretty quickly. Sodas are also not included, but you can purchase a “soda card” at the beginning of the cruise that'll cover all the soda you can drink, if that's what you want to do. Coffee, tea, and juices are all included. I became an avid juicer.

So, on board, we met Ms. Marian Kelly, a truly hilarious and self-deprecating (the best kind) comedienne. She made us roar with laughter, whether she was on-stage or sharing our table in the dining room. Marian was always “on.” Especially fun for us at her first show was a sarcastic bit about high-school cheerleaders and their “Go, team!” attitude, which she said she couldn't stand and made her sick. Well, Cathy and I were both, you may have guessed, high-school cheerleaders. So, every time she would mention the “Go, team!” bit, Cathy and I would shout, “Go, team!” in echo. Naturally, it cracked everybody up, and Marian used it to her advantage in her routine. Every time we would pass her on the ship, we would smile and cheer “Go, team!” as we passed her. She loved it, and so did we, and so did the others nearby. So, it was a whole lot of entertainment for everybody, and we made a friend.

If you're curious about Marian's sketches, you can check her out on YouTube, where you'll find quite a few bits. You'll roar with laughter, too.

About a year ago, a tornado ripped through the town where Marian lives. It destroyed every home on the other side of the street from hers, and it caused a lot of damage to hers, as well. She was home at the time and took shelter in her crawl space. Thank God she was not harmed. We love you, Marian. Go, team!

Rarotonga - A Wedding and Captain Tama's Lagoon Cruize

February 25

Kia Orana! The weather is gone, and it's a glorious day for the island wedding down the beach, which we're keeping an eye on from afar so as to give the wedding party and assembled guests the benefit of the privacy we've ourselves been enjoying here in Rarotonga. The wedding is taking place behind the fellowship hall of the church, which faces the street and backs up to the beach. There's an arch that's been prepared, and it's covered with greenery and beautiful flowers. The native bride is radiant, her lovely skin a dark tan, in sharp (and very attractive) contrast to the snow-white flounces of her long wedding gown, which traces a smooth finish in the sand as she walks slowly towards her Prince Charming...oh, sorry...I got carried away with myself. It is a very romantic scene, to be sure, and all of us down the beach send them our very best wishes and most hearty congratulations as they exchange their timeless vows. May theirs be a marriage that lasts a lifetime and brings them and their families every happiness.

Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

The sore throat has been greatly helped by the Hall's that Bob found, and the ibuprofen has done the trick. Also the Pepto Bismol. I guess I caught whatever virus Karen had. So, I didn't feel 100% this morning, but I decided to join the group for the glass-bottom boat lagoon cruise at Muri, Captain Tama's (www.captaintamas.com). Am I ever glad I did!

Our “cruise director,” Brown Apera, aka Captain Chocolate, aka Brown Island Boy, aka just plain Brown, was simply incomparable. He's full of energy, very charismatic, supremely knowledgeable about marine life (whale research) as well as island life.

Fun times at Captain Tama's.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

While we waited at Muri Beach for the outing to begin, “the boys” entertained us with drumming, ukelele tunes, jokes, and “get acquainted” moments such as the “dance lesson” for a hapless man and woman in the crowd. This part is all designed to relax and please, and it succeeds on every count.

Once we were all loaded up into the boats and the count had carefully been made – one wouldn't wish to be lost in transit – “the boys” took us snorkeling “at the giant clams” at Fruits of Rarotonga. Now, I'd seen some largish clams on our other snorkels, but these ones were much, much larger. And instead of being tightly closed, with just the bright, purplish blue border showing, these ones were wide open, the membrane/muscle/diaphragm stretched out. I could see the clams “breathing” in and out rhythmically. It was absolutely mesmerizing, something I'd never seen, a wonderful and beautiful display. I was thrilled.

Cooking for us. Yum!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

After that, we motored over to one of the little islands in the lagoon for a BBQ prepared just for us. The guys cooked a really tasty meal of yellow-tail tuna and bananas and onion and potato salad (with coconut cream...come on!) and cole slaw (with coconut cream again) and pawpaw and “coconut rice” (grated coconut, freshly done right there in front of us in record time) and starfruit and watermelon. It was all served buffet-style. Help yourself, but please eat it all. Remember: This could be your last meal!

I naturally was drawn to the “kitchen” area during the preparation, because I love to observe men at work. But I was told to “get out of my kitchen, woman!” Okay, fine. Just put down the big knife you're pointing at me, dude.

Grating the coconut.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Again, grace was said before the meal. So, the luau the other night wasn't a fluke. And then, after lunch, “Chocolate” demonstrated opening and grating the coconut and making coconut cream, which he put on the arms of the ladies – to very good effect, I must say! It makes your skin so soft, and it smells amazing. Naturally, all of this was done in his enthusiastic, humorous way with informative running commentary.

Next, we were shown about a dozen different ways to tie a pareu, using two young and beautiful tourist ladies. There was a “costume malfunction” when one of the ties didn't quite withstand a tug. I guess that's why there was an admonition to wear a bikini under the pareu at all times. Oops!

Nice tats, eh?
Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

Several of the guys have the most beautiful Polynesian tattoos. Brown especially. His are amazing, done the traditional way. And the fact that he wears them so well certainly does no harm. The nipple piercings with the black pearls were are maybe a bit over the top, but what do I know? I'm not up on these things.

There's a vaka (a Polynesian sailing vessel that looks sort of like a catamaran) joining other Pacific Voyagers sailing from New Zealand and Tonga and picking up more along the way through Tahiti and the Marquesas to Pearl Harbor to peacefully and respectfully ask the Navy to stop sonar experiments, because it harms the whales. After that, they'll come on a good will/cultural exchange/ecology education mission to San Francisco, from where they'll head south along the California coast, then make their way back to their individual islands. Brown plans to participate. We said we would see him in California. [Note: He did participate. We eagerly followed the voyagers' progress through the Pacific Voyagers website and Facebook page, and I watched online as the “canoes” came under the Golden Gate Bridge last summer. What a sight it was! We went to Treasure Island for the “meet and greet,” and we spied Brown charming the people on the vaka out in the water, where they were getting a ride. It made us smile.]

So, when you visit Raro, be sure to go to Muri Beach to hang out with Captain Tama's Boys. We all considered this outing to be a wonderful bargain as well as a highlight of our visit to the Rock. Don't miss it. You won't be disappointed.

And to remind you of another attraction you won't be disappointed to check out, here's a video taken by Jo (all rights reserved) of some of the amazing dancing at Te Vara Nui Village. 

Interesting factoid: The cigarette packs down here have the most graphic and gorey pictures of various cancers caused by smoking. Ick. Jo is collecting them to show to folks back home, and the Aussie kids in the Hibiscus smoke. So, they're saving the packs for her. I guess the images don't really encourage people to stop smoking.

Hint: Don't park under a coconut tree. I heard that's how you can tell the tourists from the natives, but I'm sure that's a joke. Although, natives would know that sort of thing. And tourists would soon figure it out. Coconuts make nasty dents in roofs and hoods. No, not ours.

Another hint: Look to the right-left-right before crossing the road, instead of left-right-left, or you could easily be hit when stepping into traffic. And remember not to drive on the right, or you'll hit someone head-on. No, not us. Traffic cones...watch out for those.

Harry and I on the beach at sunset. With Jack,
the three-legged dog.
Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

Tonight, we went to a burger stand for a burger and fries (very good fries). I asked for the Palace burger for Harry (2 meat patties, cheese, eggs, bacon...the kitchen sink). But they were out. How can that be? So, I asked for the next burger down the menu. Sorry, not making it. Why would they take the time to describe it to you, only to then tell you they don't have it?! So, we ended up with Hawaiian burgers and chips. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Oh! Paper products are very expensive here, and there isn't a lot of space for a county dump. You might have to ask for a napkin. You will get one small paper napkin. One. A small one. Try to make do with it.

It's our last night in Rarotonga, and it's hard to believe we've been here nearly two weeks. The time has flown by, and I'm not ready to go home. Today has been a great day. Tomorrow is going to be hard for me.  

Rarotonga - Attack of the Huma Humas

February 23...Oh, my! That's awfully close to February 26. Don't think of that now. It's amazing how time flies by here. A person really should come for a whole month. At least a whole month. Or two. Or three...

It's the first really rainy and/or completely overcast day we've had, which is pretty spectacular. So, we went looking for some art by Tim Buchanan. We didn't have any luck there, but it was a very good day for souvenir shopping and for strictly-window-shopping at higher end stores featuring $3,500 quilts, $300 dresses, $200+ traditional Cook Islander hats, and so on. I am talking here about superior quality, handmade, beautiful, really-really-nice things. Things I cannot afford, unfortunately. Perhaps, if I plan ahead, next time?

Snorkeling at The Rarotongan.
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

We decided to give the snorkeling at The Rarotongan another go (Thank you, Bob, for hearing my plea!). It was fabulous. Okay, it was FABULOUS!!! The water was crystal clear. There were lots of gorgeous fishies of all sizes and shapes. Even a green moray eel! Lots of huma huma trigger fish (one of which decided it would be a terrific idea to attack the glass on my mask, and another of which decided it would be a stellar idea to bite Bob on the leg, all in, we're guessing, attempts to protect the babies swimming about?), many damsels, schools of parrot fish, etc. There was no sunlight filtering through (obviously, since it was cloudy), but there was plenty of light in the water, which was shallow. How great to be able to relax because you can see around you! YAY! The best snorkel ever!

A trigger about to attack me.
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

One thing, though, is that I got super cold while snorkeling today (a first). How can you get cold and feel like you've got arthritis in your hands in such warm weather? Bob says it's probably because of all the energy I was expending, but how is that possible? I was just floating there, breathing through a tube and, occasionally, using my flippers. When we got out of the water, I was shaking and shivering, and my fingernails were blue. How weird! I wanted one of those fabulous flat whites tout de suite. But Bob had no mercy, and soon we were back at the Coral villa, where I took a “hot” shower in tepid water to warm up. (The hot water heater is solar. No sun, no hot water. Sun, blazing hot water.)

Karen has a sore throat today, but that didn't stop her from participating. She doesn't have time to feel sick, 'cause she's on vacation!

The guys having a chat.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

A fun thing happened in town today. Harry was wearing his new, just-purchased Mongoose Rugby Avatiu Nikao Golden Oldies tank top. This guy comes up to him and says, “Nice shirt you're wearing, but I don't remember seeing you at practice...” HA! It was the team co-captain, and he was wearing his team shirt. How cool is that? It made Harry's whole vacation. They chatted for a while, and, yes, of course, I took their photo together. Come on...so would you...admit it.

Jo has prepared a cocktail we've dubbed “Coral Sunset” (equal parts pineapple, papaya, and coconut juices, some tequila and ice, blended) with little canapes. Bob is cooking dinner. I could get used to this...

Oh. More weirdness: I used conditioner on my hair today, and it got oily, of all things. My hair is never oily. And it has a nice, soft curl here, too. I think I was meant to live here or Aruba or Bonaire or Kauai or some other island paradise. Or on a cruise ship, maybe, like that joke about how it's cheaper to live on a cruise ship than in a retirement home. That way, I can go from island paradise to island paradise to island paradise...ahhhh.

When you're surrounded by intense beauty,
you get inspired to doll up your platings.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

What we're doing right now: Harry is doing a crossword. Karen is on a lounge chair on the deck. Jo is reading a book. Bob is checking the chicken. I am writing to you. Life, at this moment, is jam-packed with the favor of the Father. Thank you, Papa, for this gift of refreshment, which I needed so much without realizing. But you know all. You knew I needed to see this place that you created and be surrounded by its intense beauty and touched by its lovely people. You amaze me. You are so good!

Rarotonga - Black Rocks and Black Pearls

Kia Orana and Happy New Year, everybody! I took a little break from my travel diary over the holidays and went to Maine for Christmas. More on that later! So, here we go with more adventures in Rarotonga:

February 22

Sunrise in Rarotonga
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I'm not one to wake up really early in the morning. For some reason, though, that's what happened today. I was in bed, trying to go back to sleep to no avail. And so I thought I'd go ahead and get up to see the sunrise. I know. That just isn't me, is it? Bob is usually the one who gets up with the chickens, but he was still sleeping as I went out onto the deck in the dark to wait patiently, alone.

And then the pinks and oranges pierced the night sky with increasing intensity and saturation of color. Wow! What a sight as the water reflected the sunrise, bringing it right to the beach below me. I've never seen a sunrise like this one anywhere, ever. And I did feel as though this particular sunrise was just for me, somehow. I was overwhelmed and grateful and moved to tears. Really, this island shouldn't still be trying so hard to win me over. It's a done deal.

The bigger the shell, the bigger the inhabitant.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We went to Black Rocks this morning in an effort to find really cool seashells, as there aren't really any at our place. We did find a few. Harry likes the cone-shaped ones that are super-heavy...so, we won't be able to take them home. I'm not sure if this is fortunate or unfortunate. They're out on the deck right now, in case anybody is still living in there. One of his tiny seashells walked off (well, the little crab inside walked off with his residence).

Bob and Karen went snorkeling at Black Rocks, which is reputed to be a good spot; however, they came right back out. The water wasn't clear, and they said the current was really strong and dragging them along at breakneck speeds. Bob said there was no redeeming value. That's too bad, because it looked really nice from the shore.

Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

On the way back to our place, we stopped at the meat market that's right next door to Cook's Brewery. So, we had a taste at Cook's, and it was good. And so was the chicken from the meat market that Karen BBQ'd for dinner. Very yummy indeed!

We also stopped at the black pearl shop, where Jo bought something “for Robin.” If Jo finds something else that she likes better “for Robin,” then today's purchase will be “for Jo.” I recognized the salesgirl (Saleswoman? Salesperson? Please don't be offended) from the black pearl shop at the Saturday market.

The music that was playing in the store was worship music, but I couldn't hear it well enough to identify it, so I asked who it was. Hillsong. Of course. She seemed pleased that I had recognized it as worship music, at least, and we chatted a bit. I told her that one of the greatest gifts I am taking home in my heart is how wonderful it is that Rarotongans are not ashamed of the Gospel, and how encouraging that is to me. She thinks that the people in America have sort of lost their way. She looked so sad as she was sharing her thoughts with me, and we both had tears in our eyes. Our conversation was very heart-felt and moving. I need to come back to this place “on a mission” to help with Vacation Bible School or something! I'm sure I could learn a lot.

It rained today, so it's a bit cooler and less muggy tonight. I'm wearing the pareu I bought in Puerto Rico tonight, and it's very comfortable. It's relaxing to sit and read (and/or write, as I'm doing now) and slow down. This pace of life is fantastically restful and agreeable. I'm not looking forward to returning to the rush, rush, rush of the world back home.

We went snorkeling at Fruits of Rarotonga this afternoon. It's reputed to be the best spot on the island. The snorkeling there is easy, and there was a wide variety of sea creatures. But, again, the water was cloudy. (Please note that when I say the water was cloudy, I am speaking in relative terms.)

Bet you thought this blue starfish was on the beach.
But it wasn't. It was underwater!
Photo by Chris (above the water). All rights reserved.

I asked Bob if we can go back to The Rarotongan for a snorkel at some point, as (aside from our place) that's been the best so far. Our place is awesome! I look out at the lagoon from our beachside deck, and I can't imagine a better situated, more lovely spot. I'm in paradise.

Rarotonga - Wigmore Falls and Earthquake News

Monday, February 21

Waterfront in Avarua
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Kia orana!

This morning, we went to Avarua to get more internet time and to shop. We got groceries, and we got our exit tax taken care of. I wonder how many people decide to bag the exit tax and just stay on the island? That's what I wanted to do...

By the way, when you go to the bank to pay your exit tax, be sure you already have enough cash on you to do so, or else use the ATM right outside. You can use a credit card at the bank, but it's charged as a cash advance. So, if your ATM fees are less (which mine would have been), you're better off to get cash first, then go inside. As you no doubt know, interest starts being charged tout de suite on a cash advance.

She made that basket in five minutes!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We took the “back road” to see the agricultural areas. The back road parallels the main road on parts of the island. We found a couple of ladies selling fruit alongside the road, so, naturally, we stopped to purchase some. While we made our selection of bananas, young coconut, starfruit, and papaya, one of the ladies made a coconut frond basket for us to carry our purchases in. This is something that you'll find pretty often as you drive about. They don't charge you for the basket, either. And there's no plastic bag to deal with. I determined that I would find materials back home to make baskets or bags with so as to reduce my impact on the environment.

We also drove up to the hospital to see what it looks like. Hmm. Not exactly “third world” looking; on the other hand...

Wigmore Falls
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

On the way back to the house, we decided to go to Wigmore Falls, which is a lovely little spot a tiny bit inland. The mosquitoes started attacking as soon as I opened the car door. It surprised me, because we hadn't had a problem with bugs at all. And, naturally, I hadn't applied bug repellant beforehand. So, there I was, using my Deet towelette, smashing skeeters as I rubbed the stuff all over. Next time, use the bug repellant first, silly girl!

Back at the house, we made lunch and went for a snorkel. Then we heard the news on the radio that there had been a big earthquake in Christchurch, New Zealand, with major damage. We still hadn't been able to get our television to work.

I went next door to alert the folks in the other house who were from New Zealand and had just come out of the water from their snorkel. Naturally, they were frantic to talk to their loved ones back home. Happily, we all found out that everyone was fine; however, the home of one of their sons was lost to liquefaction, and the mother-in-law's house was uninhabitable because it had split in half. Knowing how spotty and downright wrong information can be during such emergencies, we took the doomsday reports of the dead and wounded and missing to be overestimates (as they normally are). But there were 65 confirmed deaths at that point, with more probably to come. Not good.

I watched the reports on the television next door for a little while, then went back to our place to find that my husband had managed to get a picture on one channel. Good job! So, this evening, we are glued to the television set. We're grateful that our friends next door are in contact with their intact families, but we're sad for many others for whom life has just become a wasteland of devastation.

Would there be a tsunami? We had been told that because of the local geography, with the steep drop-off right on the other side of the reef, any tsunami would be held at bay. But you can be sure that we were watching the tide very carefully, and we were prepared to head to the hills on a moment's notice! And, if you've been reading along, you already know that we had familiarized ourselves with the nearest tsunami escape route. Thankfully, that wasn't necessary.

Photo by Harry. All rights reserved.

Dinner tonight was prepared by Bob and Jo, and it was lovely: cucumber salad, rice, and curried tuna. Very nicely prepared, and absolutely delicious. As was our custom, we ate out on the deck, where there's a very nice teakwood table and chairs. And we watched the lagoon for any sign of emptying...

Rarotonga - Getting Around, Eating Well, and Finding Bob

February 18

Maire Nui Tropical Gardens
Photo by Chris.
All rights reserved.

Kia orana!

There are some lovely gardens (Maire Nui Tropical Gardens) a few minutes down the road, and we walked there for breakfast at their little cafe. But it was closed. So, we walked on to Fruits of Rarotonga, where Bob said we'd find delicious and exotic tropical jams and things. But they were closed, too. And so we continued walking on to Muri Beach Resort. So, you can see that it isn't very far from Titikaveka to Muri. But it is a hot, sticky walk. At least, it was today! Don't forget your water bottle, no matter where you're going.

Anyhow, success! The Muri Beach Resort's cafe, Aqua, was open. We sat outside in the shaded patio, to catch a breeze. Harry had the most delicious coconut french toast. I had a bacon, cheese, and banana sandwich (grilled). It's amazing the things that sound good on a menu in the tropics, don't you agree? On paper, I'm with you. It sounds... “interesting.” Surprisingly, though, it was actually quite good. I ate every bite. The crunchiness of the bread, the saltiness of the bacon, the creaminess of the cheese, and the sweetness of the banana made for an “all in one” party for the taste buds. And, naturally, I tried a “flat white” coffee. It's basically a wet (or “white”) cappuccino, for those of you who are unfamiliar with the term, as I was. And it was simply outstanding. It smelled incredible. The flavor was amazing. (We thought it might be coffee from the Cook Island of Atiu, but it was from New Zealand. Good job, Kiwis!) So, now I'm going to be addicted to “flat whites,” I suppose.

Randomly throwing in a photo of the tsunami
escape route. Just so you know it's there.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

The bus runs all the way around the island clockwise, and also counter-clockwise (or, locally, “anti-clockwise”). It comes around every half hour or so, and it's very reasonable. One-way fare is $4NZ, round-trip is $7NZ. Carry some cash. Rather than walking back to Titikaveka, we took the bus back to the house. We actually could have walked back in the amount of time it took to wait for the bus and ride back; however, we might have passed out from the heat and humidity in the process. We thought it wise to avoid that.

When we got home, we went for a snorkel. The water was so refreshing and wonderful. It's just amazing. I heard the strains of the “Adventures in Paradise” theme song again as I floated effortlessly in the calm water, enjoying the world “under the sea.” Uh, oh. By the way, I've been unable to find Nemo. That would be because, apparently, there aren't clown fish here. And if you followed all of that, pop the DVD out and back away from the television. Seriously.

Modeling our wide-brimmed hats.
Photo by Chris.
All rights reserved.

And then I learned how to tie a pareu dress so it looks good...yay! Note to self: When coming here next time, pack two pareus (pareux?), two bathing suits, one skirt, and two tops. And gallons of sunblock. And flip flops, reef shoes, and Keens. And a mask, snorkel, and fins. And a swim shirt (to protect the back and arms from the sun when snorkeling) and swim shorts (to protect the back of the legs). Even underwear is seeing minimal use, since I'm wearing a bathing suit most of the time. So, one to wear, one to dry, and a spare. I packed very “light,” but I haven't worn half of it at all yet. And I wouldn't need to (or so it seems). Don't forget the wide-brimmed hat. I have pins on mine from all the places it has been. Just a little quirk.

Bob was out there somewhere.
Can you spot him? Neither could we.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Bob went for a late afternoon snorkel for a couple of hours. We couldn't see him anywhere and started to wonder if he had drifted off somewhere, and Karen and I went looking for him up and down the beach, then drove to Fruits of Rarotonga, then doubled back over to the (park) beach on the far side of the vacation bungalows on the other side of us. No Bob. But we did meet some very nice folks from New Zealand, one of whom said he could be Bob if need be! He was wearing gear the same color as Bob's, so we called out to him before realizing we had the wrong guy. Oops.

Bob (our Bob, not the “I could be Bob” Bob) did come back, by the way. We needn't have been concerned, as he was wearing his flotation vest (since he was snorkeling alone) and had simply gone all the way to the reef, where he said he saw an amazing array of sea life. He couldn't bear to come back, I guess, until he was too tired to continue! The thing is that there are several places around the island where there's a break in the reef. You don't want to go out with the tide, you know?

Anyhow, one of the young men (He got married here and has been married for two years) actually came by the house a bit later to make sure we'd found Bob. How nice is that? He says he's stayed at “our” house several times (There is just no justice in the world!) and thinks it's the best house on the best snorkel beach on the island. I couldn't agree more.

I haven't mentioned our neighbors much, but we've had an opportunity to chat with them on a number of occasions, and they are friendly and fun. They're leaving to go back to Olympia, Washington (USA), tomorrow. So, some new folks will be moving in for the week. And also into the house behind us, I think, which is too bad but was bound to happen. That house has been empty all week, so the privacy and quiet have been outstanding.

For dinner, we made spaghetti and a salad. Now that we're all better rested and more relaxed, it's really fine. So, note to self: Day 1, breakfast on the way to the house, stop at the grocery store for breakfast/lunch foods for two days, and eat dinner out for two days. Then settle into the cooking routine if you want to. Oh, and get plenty of ice. And do bring your hard liquor (if any) from home. Maybe the prices look different when the dollar is stronger, though.

Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

How we're spending our evening: Bob is editing the hundreds of photos that he took today. I think the fact that he's taking so many pictures is making the rest of us a bit lazy about taking our own, but that's okay. He said he will share.

Harry's doing a crossword puzzle, Karen is reading a travel magazine about Rarotonga, Jo is reading her book, I'm writing in my diary, and we're all listening to some tunes. Sounds familiar, eh? Life is so good right now. Breathe slowly. Listen to the sound of the geckos on the ceiling. Watch them hunt for the few bugs that are around. Sigh. I love Rarotonga, and it kills me that our vacation is nearly half over.

I see light from a flashlight in the water. The folks next door must be going on one last night snorkel. It sounds a bit scary to me, but I'm sure it must be very enjoyable, or they wouldn't be doing it again!

I wrote postcards to the folks back home today, as is my habit to do. I'll hope for a place to send them off tomorrow, and then I'll hope they get hoe before I do. That would be a first.

Rarotonga
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

One of my photo-taking frustrations, besides my camera seemingly not adjusting properly to whatever light is out there...bright, dim, overcast...it doesn't matter what. I think I might need a new camera, which is a bummer. Especially considering that I ordered a spare battery for this one (that arrived the day after we left home...naturally). Wait. Where was I? Oh, right. The frustration: Thus far, I have been unable to get a good picture of the peaks. They look so fabulous from the water, where you can see them rising majestically above the palm trees and vegetation. But once you're on land, the vegetation and closeness of everything just makes it very hard to capture the beauty and do justice to it. Perhaps I'll get a postcard for myself, too. [Note: Perhaps it was simply the moisture “fog” on the photo display, or the salty film on the viewer. The pictures, once I was able to really look at them, turned out fine. So, the camera was not in need of replacement, thankfully!]

Full moon in the clouds.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Tomorrow night, we are going to a Polynesian village tour, dinner, and show. It's supposed to be the best island show in Raro. I hope so! I understand each island group has its own style of dance, which makes sense, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it's done here in the Cooks. Karen says she wants to see the guys with the muscular thighs. I'm sure she is making a joke. Or not?

Rarotonga - The Rarotongan

February 17 (Thursday already!)

Rainbow
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Kia orana! There was another big rainstorm overnight. It rains very hard and wakes you up. Then it clears up. Then it clouds over. But it doesn't matter. The temperature is fabulous and very comfortable today.

This morning, we went snorkeling at The Rarotongan, the really nice resort (low-rise) where Bob and Karen stayed last time they were here. It seems funny to say that. Someday, I'll be back in Raro, and I'll be able to say, “Oh! And here's the place where we stayed last time we were here!” [Okay, stop tearing up, eyeballs. It could happen. Really.]

The Rarotongan Resort from the water.
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

Just as in Aruba, the beaches here are all open to the public. It isn't a problem, because there's hardly anybody on the beach, even at the resorts! So, it's totally okay to drive to The Rarotongan, park your car across the street, walk through the resort to the beach, and go snorkeling. Besides, you'll probably spend some money on a meal or a drink or a souvenir. So, it's good for business.

Apparently, there's at least one wedding every day at The Rarotongan. There's a nice deck area for the reception, and everything's included – the food, the band, the flowers. By “included,” of course, I don't mean “free.” On this particular day, they were setting up the tables, and the band was warming up. It looked like it was going to be a good time as well as a good day for somebody!

Photo by Bob Hampton.
All rights reserved.

As previously mentioned, there's a lagoon that goes pretty much all the way around the island. Our place is on the south side of the island, towards the east. The Rarotongan is also on the south side of the island, but it's on the western “corner.” But it's the same lagoon. The fish at the resort are used to being fed, so they come over to you when you hit the water. Especially if you happen to have some frozen peas with you.

The water was much clearer today, with a fabulously wonderful array of fish (sea life?). And the fish are bigger, too, some of them, than I was expecting to see. Big enough to eat. But not big enough to eat you, which, in my book, is an important distinction.

Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

We had lunch at a little place down the road from the resort, at the half-way mark (½ way around the 32 km island from the main town, Avarua). I had a B.E.L.T. Sandwich (bacon, egg, lettuce, tomato). I'd seen it on a few menus and thought I'd give it a try. It was very unexpectedly delicious. Really. Give it a try, and you'll see. Harry had Cajun chicken salad, which was also very good.

Tonight, we ate at the Paw Paw Patch Restaurant, about a five-minute walk from our place. It was a great experience on a number of levels (see the previous post...). I had Thai fish (marlin), and Harry had fish curry. The food was excellent.

Fun factoid: There are stray (or not) dogs everywhere (also chickens), but they are friendly and don't seem mangy like stray (or not) dogs I've seen elsewhere (Mexico, for instance). There's a dog on our property. Jack, the three-legged dog. He's the only one we're “allowed” to feed, and he always knows when we're eating something. He suddenly appears out of nowhere. This morning, he had some scrambled eggs and toast, because we'd cooked too much. At home, my husband was always very opposed to giving dogs treats from the table. He must be going through a phase or having a change of heart, because the “no treat” rule does not apply to Jack.

A walk on the beach.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I went for a walk on the beach this afternoon – beautiful! The tide was very low, and you didn't need snorkel gear to see bunches of parrot fish and a snowflake eel and spotted groupers and etc., right next to the water line in the closest corals. So peaceful. Highly recommended and refreshing for body, soul, and spirit. I hear the theme song from “Adventures in Paradise” (television series) in my head as I look at the water and the palm trees.

There are lots of cute vacation places in our village, Titikaveka – bungalows, small hotels, and so on. There are no high rises on the island. The vegetation is lush, with flowering hedges mostly lining the road on both sides. Just when you're about to snap a photo from the moving vehicle, here comes another hedge. But it's hard to mind terribly. It's gorgeous. Jaw-dropping, even.

Most residences seem very liveable, though not all. There are a couple of “shells” that we drive by, and one of us will say, “Hey! We can totally remodel that place!” It's kind of a running joke. There are homes that are over the top, too, but it seems, as a rule, that “regular people” live a simpler life here. But that is not the same as a substandard life, which I've seen in other places.

Oh! Forgot to mention our dessert tonight at the Paw Paw Patch. It was outstanding: coconut-cashew pie with a lovely, not-too-sweet caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. Mmmmmm! And we also tried a Matutu pale ale. No, not with dessert! With dinner. It's locally brewed, and I had expected it to be a little...flat tasting. But it was surprisingly flavorful.

Bob editing photos. Harry looking on.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Here's what we're all doing to pass the time this evening: Bob is editing pictures. Harry is doing a crossword puzzle. We are having trouble with the DVD player, as the movies we brought from home will not play on it. And, there's one television station, but we can't seem to get it. It's kind of nice, actually, to just...be. I find that I can bear the deprivation quite well indeed. The sound of the waves crashing on the reef offshore is soothing.