Rarotonga - The Last Dance

March 1

Paradise.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved

February 26 was a hot, sticky, tropical kind of day, the steamiest of our trip. It was our last day in Raro, and nobody wanted to leave. The prospect loomed large over us, and tempers wore a bit thin. I think it was the combination of uncomfortable humidity partnered with the general moroseness one quite naturally feels when facing a separation of thousands of miles from this amazingly beautiful, calm, peaceful place.

This guy poses in the 4 directions.
Here, I'm doing my best to cover his bits...

We started our packing while waiting for a couple of us to come back from a walkabout, and then we went to market in Avarua, it being Saturday morning. And, as you'll remember, going to market is what one does on Saturday mornings. We were all sweating profusely. I'm sorry to be indelicate, but facts are facts. There's no other way to put it.

I mentioned to one of the shopkeepers that it was an awfully hot day, and she smiled and said, “Well, that's what you came here for, isn't it?” Actually, no. But I suppose, generally, she does have a point. Most people would be here to escape winter weather. But the winter weather where I live is not of the sub-freezing, blizzardy variety.

Marumaru Atua, the Cook Islands vaka.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We walked along the waterfront in Avarua, and guess what we saw? The vaka! There it was, at full sail, just outside the reef. It was making its way into the harbor, with a whole bunch of people on board. We watched (in the shade) as it approached the dock by Captain Jack's, and then we walked on over to have a closer look. I tried to imagine crossing the ocean on this vessel, but I couldn't quite picture myself doing it. Especially in high seas. The Voyagers are a brave and adventurous bunch!

Marumaru Atua at Treasure Island
(near San Francisco)
We visited, as promised. Can you spot Brown?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We took some pictures and then tried to think of something to take home to cook for dinner. Everything pretty much closes at 1 or 2 on Saturday afternoon so everyone can get ready for Sunday, except a few of the pricier places, and we needed to think about what we still had left to do in order to be ready to leave on time. Frankly, I thought I'd rather miss the plane, but then there would be the small problem of no money and no place to stay. Not a happy prospect, eh? But surely there's something an enthusiastic and vivacious person such as myself could do to earn a small but sufficient living here? Anyway, we had just eaten at the market, and nothing sounded good. So, we went home empty-handed, a development we would come to rue.

We went for our last snorkel, always sort of a sad and melancholy thing. Goodbye, big, beautiful fishes and other serene sea creatures. Goodbye, lovely coral heads teeming with itsy bitsy fishies of many colors and shapes. Goodbye, refreshing and clear lagoon. Goodbye, coral reef off in the distance, breaking up the thunderous waves that come crashing upon you. If you have tears in your eyes, well, so did I.

The light from the flash reflecting from the sky's tears.
A torrential downpour on our last evening in Raro.
Looks like snow, but it's huge raindrops!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Bob took the car back to the rental agency, and so now we had no transportation but our feet. So, we thought we might walk over to the PawPaw Patch for dinner. It was dark, but the PawPaw is an easy distance from the Coral Villa. Except that the skies opened up and started crying because we were leaving soon. I mean, buckets of tears. A torrent of emotion that kept on going, and going, and going. There was just no relief for the deep sorrow the island was experiencing. The downpour continued and did not stop. Somehow, I was able to draw solace from the fact that Raro was going to miss me just as much as I was going to miss Raro. And the rain continued. We were unable to go get dinner.

So, we finished packing and chatted while awaiting the shuttle to the airport. Such sad times! Rongo (the manager) came to bid us farewell and wanted to hear all about our adventures, which lightened the mood a bit. She is experienced at such things, and it showed. Thank you, Rongo, for making us feel so sure that we would indeed be back again, and soon.

Rongo and a friend on a
sunnier day.
Thank you, Rongo!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

The shuttle arrived, we loaded up our bags, and we said our goodbyes to Rongo. It was so kind of her to stay with us until the bitter end. In retrospect, though, she probably needed to make sure we were actually vacating the premises! But she never let us think that at the time, not even for a second. The air conditioning in the shuttle was going full blast, and it was just freezing in there. Or so it seemed to me. I hadn't really experienced a whole lot of air conditioning while in Raro, preferring the sea breezes.

We got to the airport in plenty of time to check out the souvenir shops after checking in (a long line of dejected people, hating to leave). Harry got a Cook Islands Police hat, which he has since given to a guy at the VA [military veterans' clinic] who thought it was cool. Just sharing the love.

I purchased one last flat white, even though it's a hot drink and the temperature in the terminal was quite warm (no air conditioning there).

On the plane, I was seated next to a Rarotongan young man who works at the Rarotongan resort. We chatted about slow internet speeds and so on, and he talked about property fights and loose women and STDs and unwed mothers and lazy islanders...it was interesting, for sure, to hear his perspective on things. It certainly wasn't the picture I'd painted in my head and didn't match my experiences at all. Then again, I'd only been there two weeks. I wonder. At any rate, it just goes to show, there's always more to a story than meets the eye. And I still want to go back. So there.

Arriving in Los Angeles. There's snow on the mountains.
Feeling sad...
Photo taken by my Rarotongan friend with my camera.
He had the window seat.

When we were landing in Los Angeles (where the TSA people just about ruined our whole vacation, but I won't discuss that here), the mountains were snow-capped. My new friend had a hard time wrapping his head around that! “Is that SNOW?!” he asked incredulously; and, “I'm going to freeze!” he declared. I'm sure the friends he is visiting will be able to provide him with cold weather gear, if he needs it. Just because there's snow on the mountain tops doesn't mean it's cold down below at all. It's LA. Swimming pools. Movie stars.

Leaving Rarotonga was so hard. There's nothing new there. I seem to fall in love with every place we visit. The cultures, the foods, the views, and, of course, the people, all have their own charm and value. All so different, yet, in a strange way, all the same. The family of man. The children of God. Aere ra, goodbye, until we meet again.

The five of us on the beach. Happy times.
Photo by the neighbors from New Zealand. Thank you!

Rarotonga - A Wedding and Captain Tama's Lagoon Cruize

February 25

Kia Orana! The weather is gone, and it's a glorious day for the island wedding down the beach, which we're keeping an eye on from afar so as to give the wedding party and assembled guests the benefit of the privacy we've ourselves been enjoying here in Rarotonga. The wedding is taking place behind the fellowship hall of the church, which faces the street and backs up to the beach. There's an arch that's been prepared, and it's covered with greenery and beautiful flowers. The native bride is radiant, her lovely skin a dark tan, in sharp (and very attractive) contrast to the snow-white flounces of her long wedding gown, which traces a smooth finish in the sand as she walks slowly towards her Prince Charming...oh, sorry...I got carried away with myself. It is a very romantic scene, to be sure, and all of us down the beach send them our very best wishes and most hearty congratulations as they exchange their timeless vows. May theirs be a marriage that lasts a lifetime and brings them and their families every happiness.

Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

The sore throat has been greatly helped by the Hall's that Bob found, and the ibuprofen has done the trick. Also the Pepto Bismol. I guess I caught whatever virus Karen had. So, I didn't feel 100% this morning, but I decided to join the group for the glass-bottom boat lagoon cruise at Muri, Captain Tama's (www.captaintamas.com). Am I ever glad I did!

Our “cruise director,” Brown Apera, aka Captain Chocolate, aka Brown Island Boy, aka just plain Brown, was simply incomparable. He's full of energy, very charismatic, supremely knowledgeable about marine life (whale research) as well as island life.

Fun times at Captain Tama's.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

While we waited at Muri Beach for the outing to begin, “the boys” entertained us with drumming, ukelele tunes, jokes, and “get acquainted” moments such as the “dance lesson” for a hapless man and woman in the crowd. This part is all designed to relax and please, and it succeeds on every count.

Once we were all loaded up into the boats and the count had carefully been made – one wouldn't wish to be lost in transit – “the boys” took us snorkeling “at the giant clams” at Fruits of Rarotonga. Now, I'd seen some largish clams on our other snorkels, but these ones were much, much larger. And instead of being tightly closed, with just the bright, purplish blue border showing, these ones were wide open, the membrane/muscle/diaphragm stretched out. I could see the clams “breathing” in and out rhythmically. It was absolutely mesmerizing, something I'd never seen, a wonderful and beautiful display. I was thrilled.

Cooking for us. Yum!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

After that, we motored over to one of the little islands in the lagoon for a BBQ prepared just for us. The guys cooked a really tasty meal of yellow-tail tuna and bananas and onion and potato salad (with coconut cream...come on!) and cole slaw (with coconut cream again) and pawpaw and “coconut rice” (grated coconut, freshly done right there in front of us in record time) and starfruit and watermelon. It was all served buffet-style. Help yourself, but please eat it all. Remember: This could be your last meal!

I naturally was drawn to the “kitchen” area during the preparation, because I love to observe men at work. But I was told to “get out of my kitchen, woman!” Okay, fine. Just put down the big knife you're pointing at me, dude.

Grating the coconut.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Again, grace was said before the meal. So, the luau the other night wasn't a fluke. And then, after lunch, “Chocolate” demonstrated opening and grating the coconut and making coconut cream, which he put on the arms of the ladies – to very good effect, I must say! It makes your skin so soft, and it smells amazing. Naturally, all of this was done in his enthusiastic, humorous way with informative running commentary.

Next, we were shown about a dozen different ways to tie a pareu, using two young and beautiful tourist ladies. There was a “costume malfunction” when one of the ties didn't quite withstand a tug. I guess that's why there was an admonition to wear a bikini under the pareu at all times. Oops!

Nice tats, eh?
Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

Several of the guys have the most beautiful Polynesian tattoos. Brown especially. His are amazing, done the traditional way. And the fact that he wears them so well certainly does no harm. The nipple piercings with the black pearls were are maybe a bit over the top, but what do I know? I'm not up on these things.

There's a vaka (a Polynesian sailing vessel that looks sort of like a catamaran) joining other Pacific Voyagers sailing from New Zealand and Tonga and picking up more along the way through Tahiti and the Marquesas to Pearl Harbor to peacefully and respectfully ask the Navy to stop sonar experiments, because it harms the whales. After that, they'll come on a good will/cultural exchange/ecology education mission to San Francisco, from where they'll head south along the California coast, then make their way back to their individual islands. Brown plans to participate. We said we would see him in California. [Note: He did participate. We eagerly followed the voyagers' progress through the Pacific Voyagers website and Facebook page, and I watched online as the “canoes” came under the Golden Gate Bridge last summer. What a sight it was! We went to Treasure Island for the “meet and greet,” and we spied Brown charming the people on the vaka out in the water, where they were getting a ride. It made us smile.]

So, when you visit Raro, be sure to go to Muri Beach to hang out with Captain Tama's Boys. We all considered this outing to be a wonderful bargain as well as a highlight of our visit to the Rock. Don't miss it. You won't be disappointed.

And to remind you of another attraction you won't be disappointed to check out, here's a video taken by Jo (all rights reserved) of some of the amazing dancing at Te Vara Nui Village. 

Interesting factoid: The cigarette packs down here have the most graphic and gorey pictures of various cancers caused by smoking. Ick. Jo is collecting them to show to folks back home, and the Aussie kids in the Hibiscus smoke. So, they're saving the packs for her. I guess the images don't really encourage people to stop smoking.

Hint: Don't park under a coconut tree. I heard that's how you can tell the tourists from the natives, but I'm sure that's a joke. Although, natives would know that sort of thing. And tourists would soon figure it out. Coconuts make nasty dents in roofs and hoods. No, not ours.

Another hint: Look to the right-left-right before crossing the road, instead of left-right-left, or you could easily be hit when stepping into traffic. And remember not to drive on the right, or you'll hit someone head-on. No, not us. Traffic cones...watch out for those.

Harry and I on the beach at sunset. With Jack,
the three-legged dog.
Photo by Bob. All rights reserved.

Tonight, we went to a burger stand for a burger and fries (very good fries). I asked for the Palace burger for Harry (2 meat patties, cheese, eggs, bacon...the kitchen sink). But they were out. How can that be? So, I asked for the next burger down the menu. Sorry, not making it. Why would they take the time to describe it to you, only to then tell you they don't have it?! So, we ended up with Hawaiian burgers and chips. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Oh! Paper products are very expensive here, and there isn't a lot of space for a county dump. You might have to ask for a napkin. You will get one small paper napkin. One. A small one. Try to make do with it.

It's our last night in Rarotonga, and it's hard to believe we've been here nearly two weeks. The time has flown by, and I'm not ready to go home. Today has been a great day. Tomorrow is going to be hard for me.  

Rarotonga - A Walk on the Beach, Dinner at Captain Jack's

February 24

Last night, the waves breaking on the reef sounded like a freight train. We wonder if there is a storm out to sea, as this is hurricane season. When the clouds cleared a bit over the house, the stars were bright and clear. So many stars! All those dots in the sky, and here we are on a dot in the ocean. It's enough to make a person feel insignificant, except that each one of us is so very important.

It was a cool night (or, it could have just been me, alternately freezing and sweating). I have a sore throat and other unpleasantness this morning, and I'm taking it easy today with slow walks on the beach.

Meandering on the beach always makes me think of my excellent mother. A walk on the beach, occasionally getting her feet wet, breathing in the salt air and looking at the waves – That's a perfect moment for my mom. And for me, too. Especially on this beach, which has nobody on it but me. Nothing but the sound of the ocean and the birds. The crunch my feet make in the sand and my breath as it goes in and out. I can practically hear my heart beating, at one with nature.

I love these blue starfish.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

The tide was very low (but not tsunami low, so no worries), and the water was clear and warm. I saw a little octopus in one of the coral heads close to shore, and also a couple of big, blue starfish, and schools of little fishies swimming close to shore. I picked up a few seashells, a couple of which hadn't yet been vacated by their inhabitants. Man, do they ever hurry away, given half a chance to do so.

It was another unusually cool and rainy day in paradise today as I sorted out my thoughts and willed my body to be well. It seems odd to be cool enough to want to wear a light sweater here! It's still very pleasant, though. Very pleasant indeed. Home seems very, very far away. In a good way.

On the waterfront by the harbor. See how low the tide is?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Tonight, we went to dinner at Trader Jack's in Avarua. Trader Jack's is right on the harbor, on the waterfront. The view is amazing, but, of course, the views everywhere are amazing. Still, if you're looking for someplace convenient and good and relatively reasonably priced to have your “our vacation is almost over dinner,” you can't go wrong here. Harry and I shared a mixed seafood plate. At $35NZ per person, it was an incredible deal: ike mata, tuna sashimi, some sushi, lobster, shrimp, scallops, calamari, and raw oysters on the half-shell. Yes, against my better judgment, I did have an oyster. The last time I had an oyster, it about gagged me with a spoon. But I wasn't going to let that stop me. Tastes change, yes? And this particular oyster? Oh, my! Smooth, silky, like butter. So fresh! It tasted like the ocean. And so, I think I just might try oysters again. Yes. I liked it. Surprise!

For dessert, we had black bean sticky rice with papaya – a big bowl of sticky rice and a separate bowl of papaya. What a meal.

Why would anyone want to leave?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I think I'll stay here. I am not at all ready to go home the day after tomorrow. Maybe, if I refuse to pay the exit tax, they'll tell me I have to stay. That would be tragic, don't you agree?

Tomorrow, we plan to go on an organized snorkel trip with Captain Tama's Famous Lagoon Cruizes, where we're told we will see some giant clams. Looking forward to that, so I hope I feel a bit better.

Rarotonga - Attack of the Huma Humas

February 23...Oh, my! That's awfully close to February 26. Don't think of that now. It's amazing how time flies by here. A person really should come for a whole month. At least a whole month. Or two. Or three...

It's the first really rainy and/or completely overcast day we've had, which is pretty spectacular. So, we went looking for some art by Tim Buchanan. We didn't have any luck there, but it was a very good day for souvenir shopping and for strictly-window-shopping at higher end stores featuring $3,500 quilts, $300 dresses, $200+ traditional Cook Islander hats, and so on. I am talking here about superior quality, handmade, beautiful, really-really-nice things. Things I cannot afford, unfortunately. Perhaps, if I plan ahead, next time?

Snorkeling at The Rarotongan.
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

We decided to give the snorkeling at The Rarotongan another go (Thank you, Bob, for hearing my plea!). It was fabulous. Okay, it was FABULOUS!!! The water was crystal clear. There were lots of gorgeous fishies of all sizes and shapes. Even a green moray eel! Lots of huma huma trigger fish (one of which decided it would be a terrific idea to attack the glass on my mask, and another of which decided it would be a stellar idea to bite Bob on the leg, all in, we're guessing, attempts to protect the babies swimming about?), many damsels, schools of parrot fish, etc. There was no sunlight filtering through (obviously, since it was cloudy), but there was plenty of light in the water, which was shallow. How great to be able to relax because you can see around you! YAY! The best snorkel ever!

A trigger about to attack me.
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

One thing, though, is that I got super cold while snorkeling today (a first). How can you get cold and feel like you've got arthritis in your hands in such warm weather? Bob says it's probably because of all the energy I was expending, but how is that possible? I was just floating there, breathing through a tube and, occasionally, using my flippers. When we got out of the water, I was shaking and shivering, and my fingernails were blue. How weird! I wanted one of those fabulous flat whites tout de suite. But Bob had no mercy, and soon we were back at the Coral villa, where I took a “hot” shower in tepid water to warm up. (The hot water heater is solar. No sun, no hot water. Sun, blazing hot water.)

Karen has a sore throat today, but that didn't stop her from participating. She doesn't have time to feel sick, 'cause she's on vacation!

The guys having a chat.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

A fun thing happened in town today. Harry was wearing his new, just-purchased Mongoose Rugby Avatiu Nikao Golden Oldies tank top. This guy comes up to him and says, “Nice shirt you're wearing, but I don't remember seeing you at practice...” HA! It was the team co-captain, and he was wearing his team shirt. How cool is that? It made Harry's whole vacation. They chatted for a while, and, yes, of course, I took their photo together. Come on...so would you...admit it.

Jo has prepared a cocktail we've dubbed “Coral Sunset” (equal parts pineapple, papaya, and coconut juices, some tequila and ice, blended) with little canapes. Bob is cooking dinner. I could get used to this...

Oh. More weirdness: I used conditioner on my hair today, and it got oily, of all things. My hair is never oily. And it has a nice, soft curl here, too. I think I was meant to live here or Aruba or Bonaire or Kauai or some other island paradise. Or on a cruise ship, maybe, like that joke about how it's cheaper to live on a cruise ship than in a retirement home. That way, I can go from island paradise to island paradise to island paradise...ahhhh.

When you're surrounded by intense beauty,
you get inspired to doll up your platings.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

What we're doing right now: Harry is doing a crossword. Karen is on a lounge chair on the deck. Jo is reading a book. Bob is checking the chicken. I am writing to you. Life, at this moment, is jam-packed with the favor of the Father. Thank you, Papa, for this gift of refreshment, which I needed so much without realizing. But you know all. You knew I needed to see this place that you created and be surrounded by its intense beauty and touched by its lovely people. You amaze me. You are so good!

Rarotonga - Black Rocks and Black Pearls

Kia Orana and Happy New Year, everybody! I took a little break from my travel diary over the holidays and went to Maine for Christmas. More on that later! So, here we go with more adventures in Rarotonga:

February 22

Sunrise in Rarotonga
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

I'm not one to wake up really early in the morning. For some reason, though, that's what happened today. I was in bed, trying to go back to sleep to no avail. And so I thought I'd go ahead and get up to see the sunrise. I know. That just isn't me, is it? Bob is usually the one who gets up with the chickens, but he was still sleeping as I went out onto the deck in the dark to wait patiently, alone.

And then the pinks and oranges pierced the night sky with increasing intensity and saturation of color. Wow! What a sight as the water reflected the sunrise, bringing it right to the beach below me. I've never seen a sunrise like this one anywhere, ever. And I did feel as though this particular sunrise was just for me, somehow. I was overwhelmed and grateful and moved to tears. Really, this island shouldn't still be trying so hard to win me over. It's a done deal.

The bigger the shell, the bigger the inhabitant.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We went to Black Rocks this morning in an effort to find really cool seashells, as there aren't really any at our place. We did find a few. Harry likes the cone-shaped ones that are super-heavy...so, we won't be able to take them home. I'm not sure if this is fortunate or unfortunate. They're out on the deck right now, in case anybody is still living in there. One of his tiny seashells walked off (well, the little crab inside walked off with his residence).

Bob and Karen went snorkeling at Black Rocks, which is reputed to be a good spot; however, they came right back out. The water wasn't clear, and they said the current was really strong and dragging them along at breakneck speeds. Bob said there was no redeeming value. That's too bad, because it looked really nice from the shore.

Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

On the way back to our place, we stopped at the meat market that's right next door to Cook's Brewery. So, we had a taste at Cook's, and it was good. And so was the chicken from the meat market that Karen BBQ'd for dinner. Very yummy indeed!

We also stopped at the black pearl shop, where Jo bought something “for Robin.” If Jo finds something else that she likes better “for Robin,” then today's purchase will be “for Jo.” I recognized the salesgirl (Saleswoman? Salesperson? Please don't be offended) from the black pearl shop at the Saturday market.

The music that was playing in the store was worship music, but I couldn't hear it well enough to identify it, so I asked who it was. Hillsong. Of course. She seemed pleased that I had recognized it as worship music, at least, and we chatted a bit. I told her that one of the greatest gifts I am taking home in my heart is how wonderful it is that Rarotongans are not ashamed of the Gospel, and how encouraging that is to me. She thinks that the people in America have sort of lost their way. She looked so sad as she was sharing her thoughts with me, and we both had tears in our eyes. Our conversation was very heart-felt and moving. I need to come back to this place “on a mission” to help with Vacation Bible School or something! I'm sure I could learn a lot.

It rained today, so it's a bit cooler and less muggy tonight. I'm wearing the pareu I bought in Puerto Rico tonight, and it's very comfortable. It's relaxing to sit and read (and/or write, as I'm doing now) and slow down. This pace of life is fantastically restful and agreeable. I'm not looking forward to returning to the rush, rush, rush of the world back home.

We went snorkeling at Fruits of Rarotonga this afternoon. It's reputed to be the best spot on the island. The snorkeling there is easy, and there was a wide variety of sea creatures. But, again, the water was cloudy. (Please note that when I say the water was cloudy, I am speaking in relative terms.)

Bet you thought this blue starfish was on the beach.
But it wasn't. It was underwater!
Photo by Chris (above the water). All rights reserved.

I asked Bob if we can go back to The Rarotongan for a snorkel at some point, as (aside from our place) that's been the best so far. Our place is awesome! I look out at the lagoon from our beachside deck, and I can't imagine a better situated, more lovely spot. I'm in paradise.

Rarotonga - Wigmore Falls and Earthquake News

Monday, February 21

Waterfront in Avarua
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Kia orana!

This morning, we went to Avarua to get more internet time and to shop. We got groceries, and we got our exit tax taken care of. I wonder how many people decide to bag the exit tax and just stay on the island? That's what I wanted to do...

By the way, when you go to the bank to pay your exit tax, be sure you already have enough cash on you to do so, or else use the ATM right outside. You can use a credit card at the bank, but it's charged as a cash advance. So, if your ATM fees are less (which mine would have been), you're better off to get cash first, then go inside. As you no doubt know, interest starts being charged tout de suite on a cash advance.

She made that basket in five minutes!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

We took the “back road” to see the agricultural areas. The back road parallels the main road on parts of the island. We found a couple of ladies selling fruit alongside the road, so, naturally, we stopped to purchase some. While we made our selection of bananas, young coconut, starfruit, and papaya, one of the ladies made a coconut frond basket for us to carry our purchases in. This is something that you'll find pretty often as you drive about. They don't charge you for the basket, either. And there's no plastic bag to deal with. I determined that I would find materials back home to make baskets or bags with so as to reduce my impact on the environment.

We also drove up to the hospital to see what it looks like. Hmm. Not exactly “third world” looking; on the other hand...

Wigmore Falls
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

On the way back to the house, we decided to go to Wigmore Falls, which is a lovely little spot a tiny bit inland. The mosquitoes started attacking as soon as I opened the car door. It surprised me, because we hadn't had a problem with bugs at all. And, naturally, I hadn't applied bug repellant beforehand. So, there I was, using my Deet towelette, smashing skeeters as I rubbed the stuff all over. Next time, use the bug repellant first, silly girl!

Back at the house, we made lunch and went for a snorkel. Then we heard the news on the radio that there had been a big earthquake in Christchurch, New Zealand, with major damage. We still hadn't been able to get our television to work.

I went next door to alert the folks in the other house who were from New Zealand and had just come out of the water from their snorkel. Naturally, they were frantic to talk to their loved ones back home. Happily, we all found out that everyone was fine; however, the home of one of their sons was lost to liquefaction, and the mother-in-law's house was uninhabitable because it had split in half. Knowing how spotty and downright wrong information can be during such emergencies, we took the doomsday reports of the dead and wounded and missing to be overestimates (as they normally are). But there were 65 confirmed deaths at that point, with more probably to come. Not good.

I watched the reports on the television next door for a little while, then went back to our place to find that my husband had managed to get a picture on one channel. Good job! So, this evening, we are glued to the television set. We're grateful that our friends next door are in contact with their intact families, but we're sad for many others for whom life has just become a wasteland of devastation.

Would there be a tsunami? We had been told that because of the local geography, with the steep drop-off right on the other side of the reef, any tsunami would be held at bay. But you can be sure that we were watching the tide very carefully, and we were prepared to head to the hills on a moment's notice! And, if you've been reading along, you already know that we had familiarized ourselves with the nearest tsunami escape route. Thankfully, that wasn't necessary.

Photo by Harry. All rights reserved.

Dinner tonight was prepared by Bob and Jo, and it was lovely: cucumber salad, rice, and curried tuna. Very nicely prepared, and absolutely delicious. As was our custom, we ate out on the deck, where there's a very nice teakwood table and chairs. And we watched the lagoon for any sign of emptying...

Rarotonga - C.I.C.C. Titikaveka

Sunday, February 20

C.I.C.C. - Titikaveka
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Kia orana! This morning, we all went to church at the Cook Islands Christian Church (C.I.C.C.) just down the street here in Titikaveka (again, that's “Tee tee kah' veh kah”). There's a C.I.C.C. in every district (five districts on the island), so pretty much every village has one. About 70% of Cook Islanders belong to this denomination, and the church is central to village life. So, it seemed like the best place for us to visit, since it would be most typical (at least, in our minds). And since it was just a short walk from the house, it was convenient, as well.

It would be rare to be made to feel more welcome anywhere. We were greeted on the walk, we were greeted at the stairs, we were greeted at the door, we were greeted inside. And with each greeting came an invitation to share some refreshment after the service. Probably 30% or more of those in attendance were guests. So, we assumed the refreshments would be cookies and coffee or something like that, which is pretty much what we offer our guests at home. More on that later.

The service was lovely and easy to follow, though lots of what went on was in the native language (the homily, for instance). There were presentations by visiting youth groups, choirs, and so on. We had heard that just the native singing, with beautiful island harmonies, would make church attendance worthwhile, even for those who don't normally attend. I must say, the singing was absolutely glorious. Really, if you go to church here, and the singing doesn't bring tears to your eyes, well, there's something wrong with you!

I took a photo of the church when it was empty,
so as not to disturb the service.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

You can't accuse these folks of “going Gospel light,” either. The Gospel is presented clearly, with a call at the end of each presentation. If you've been to that church, you have no excuse unless you weren't listening at all, ever. You can't say you didn't get the message.

Some of the songs were familiar to me (“Holy, Holy, Holy” and “Days of Elijah” and “I Believe in Jesus” and even a country song), other not so much. The songs I knew, I sang with all my heart, just like I would do at home. The songs I didn't know, I listened to and absorbed deep in my spirit. There were tears in my eyes through most of the song service, as I thought about the unity of the Body of Christ. Here I was, halfway around the world, but I was of one heart and one mind with brothers and sisters I'd never met. Connected. So, yes, I was emotional. And I'm not about to apologize for it.

The five of us enjoyed the service very much. The invitation to the gathering afterward was repeated several times during church. But there were one or two in our group who were unsure about staying, so, not wanting any of us to be uncomfortable, we all decided to just walk home for lunch. Ha! One of the deacons cut us off at the pass and was rather insistent that we should eat with them. I guess we almost committed a terrible faux pas, unknowingly. We didn't want to insult our hosts, so we followed him to the fellowship hall.

Boiled taro, sweet potatoes, and a bunch of other goodies.
Photo by Jo Gade. All rights reserved.

It wasn't just light refreshments. It was a whole meal of island specialties, served buffet style. I thought the tables would collapse from the weight of the food, which was piled high. There was delicious ika mata (fish marinated in coconut cream...my favorite), poke (banana cooked in arrowroot, also very yummy), roasted pork, chicken, lamb, etc. There were fruits and vegetables. I ate sea cucumber roe cooked with egg, and I loved it. I know! All of us agreed that this meal was even better than the one we'd had at the dinner show. By the way, you are expected to pile your plate high and eat until you are absolutely stuffed and cannot eat another bite, as though it is your last meal.

Waiting in the guest section.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

One thing I found strange, though, is that the church members sat together at tables with tablecloths, while the guests were seated on plastic chairs and wooden benches in a corner of the room and outside. The members ate first, and then the guests were invited to eat. Membership has its privileges? This is completely opposite how we do things at home, where the guests are seated in places of honor and are served first. That doesn't mean I thought it was all wrong or was offended or anything; I just noted that it was different and thought it would be interesting to find out why the custom is the way it is [Perhaps to demonstrate to guests that there is more than enough food to eat here? Or perhaps fattening up the captives during cannibal days of yore?...No offense! Just making a joke and wondering is all). There was certainly plenty of food, as the platters were replenished over and over again, and we were encouraged to eat more and more until I thought I would burst. As I said, we couldn't have felt more welcomed. Good job, C.I.C.C. Titikaveka!

Our property manager, Rongo, was a little surprised to see us at church, I think. I hope it was a pleasant surprise for her. It was certainly a pleasant surprise for us to see her there, a familiar and friendly face.

What to wear: Ladies, you are expected to keep your shoulders and upper arms covered modestly and also to wear a skirt or dress (rather than shorts). So, please don't wear your bathing suit cover-up to church on Sunday morning. I don't think they would refuse to let you in, but it just wouldn't be honoring and respectful to show up dressed in poolside clothing. You can wear sandals, and you don't have to wear stockings. Thank goodness! Also, please wear a hat. Your sun hat will do. The local ladies wear the beautiful and quite expensive woven pandanus hats to church. The hats are decorated with woven flowers, silk flowers, black pearls, and so on. They wear dresses with short sleeves (as opposed to no sleeves), generally, or else a shirt and blouse. The ladies also wear huge black pearl earrings and pendants, and there's certainly no lack of places where you can purchase these in Rarotonga. Gentlemen, you might want to pack a pair of khakis (You can wear them on the plane) and a Hawaiian shirt. The local gentlemen will be wearing shirts and ties, but you can get by a bit more casually. Again, thank goodness!

It was a very hot and sticky day when the breeze died down. It was a steam bath in church, and, suddenly, the wind kicked up and the rain poured down in cool buckets, providing some much-needed relief. So, you might want to bring something with which to fan yourself (other than the church bulletin, that is).

Just so you'll know and can plan accordingly, things are closed in Raro on Sundays. It's truly a day of rest. Get your groceries and your gasoline on Saturday. We should go back to doing that back home, because there's really nothing like knowing that you might as well rest, as there's nothing else to do. I had forgotten how relaxing that is!

In neighborhood news, people have moved into Hibiscus, the house behind ours. They arrived late last night from New Zealand for a wedding. Auckland is just a couple of hours flight from here. Come on! There's no justice in the world.

Rarotonga is a very popular wedding destination, which is no surprise to me. I still don't really understand the whole “destination wedding” thing. Why not be married in your home church? Why invite all your guests to your honeymoon destination? And it's such a huge expense for your guests. But, on the other hand, fewer guests are able to attend. Hmmm.....

Ahhh. This is living. Look at that water!
Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

So, we rested this afternoon. You know, sitting on a lounge chair overlooking the lagoon from our awesome deck and listening to the far-off waves crashing on the reef while reading a good book (in my case, The Girls), every once in a while taking a cooling dip in the refreshing water...well, how do you describe that? It's paradise, truly. And you can't do this at home.

Tonight, we had a light meal of seared ahi tuna that Bob bought at the market yesterday, and coconut rice that I made, and guava and pawpaw and cucumber. It was very tasty.

I washed the dishes, and Karen dried. I find that I'm not minding cooking and cleaning up while camping in this lovely house on the beach, after all. I suppose I was tired the other day when I complained about it.

It's 9 p.m. It's been hot today, but it seems a bit cooler now. Jo and Karen have gone to bed, my husband's doing crosswords, and Bob is editing pictures, as is his nightly habit. The guys have used up the 150 meg of internet time we purchased, so we'll have to get more tomorrow. Or the next day. Or whatever.

Rarotonga - Market Day and Te Vara Nui Village

Saturday, February 19

Saturday Market in Avarua
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Kia orana! Everybody got up early this morning, and we went to the market in Avarua. Some vendors are here daily, but most are only here on Saturday. There were so many vendors! We stayed for hours, browsing here, browsing there, and making mental notes about what we'll purchase. Next Saturday at the market. Because market day is a big deal, and you don't want to ruin it by already having all your purchases made!

There's a covered stage set up conveniently in the middle of the market, and, on this day, there were young people who were doing traditional dancing as a fundraiser for a trip they were taking to another island. The little girls were too cute! I was trying to take photos but ended up accidentally turning on the movie function on my camera. It was a happy mistake, and I hope the video works for you.

A picture, in case the video doesn't
work for you. Aren't they cute?
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

There were lots of food vendors, and everything sounded really good. We finally decided on some meat on a stick ($2NZ per stick) and a fresh fruit smoothie. The meat was tender and flavorful and delicious, and the smoothy was wonderfully cooling. Just the ticket to refresh us and keep us going.

We came home from market, had a swim, then got ready for the dance show extravaganza. We had made reservations at Te Vara Nui Village (Muri) and went to pick up our tickets at the designated hour. Note to self: Bring a discount coupon for each person next time, as it turns out that the coupon is only good for one admission (unlike at home, where one coupon will get everybody in your party a discount). So, we only got one $10NZ discount. Ah, well. Live and learn. We mentioned to the nice lady at the desk that it might be a good idea and create less confusion if the coupon clearly stated “Good for one admission” or “One coupon per person” or something like that. She was unimpressed with our helpfulness.

The ticket we purchased included a cultural tour of the recreated Polynesian village as well as the dinner show.

Pretty fierce looking!
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

The cultural tour was very interesting and covered costuming and traditional medicines and traditional construction and fishing traditions and weaving with coconut fronds. There was a demonstration of how to climb a coconut tree, which you apparently have to do if you're going to harvest the green (“young”) coconuts that are so much a part of the diet here (and from which we get the coconut water that is all the rage to drink right now). They showed how to remove the husk from the coconut with a sharp stick, and how to open the coconut with a single blow from the back of a large knife, and how to make coconut cream from the coconut meat. They talked about the importance of coconut in their culture and about the value of coconut for nutrition and hydration. I was mesmerized, as I absolutely love coconut. The tour was well worth the expense, I thought. And when it was time for the dance lesson, My husband “volunteered” and was chosen. He was a good sport and actually seemed to enjoy it. And, of course, I enjoyed it tremendously!

My husband (center) getting his groove on.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Then came the dinner, which included lots of variety – fish in coconut milk, curried beef, chicken baked in the ground, lamb wrapped in taro leaf, and so on. Everything was delicious, well-presented, and plentiful. The bench tables were a little too close together, though, and that made it difficult to get up and sit down. But we managed. Where there's a will, there's a way.

The dance show was absolutely fantastic. I don't know how they can move like that in the first place, much less for an hour. The stamina required is amazing. The girls were stunningly beautiful, and the guys had those great thighs that Karen wanted to see. The fire dancers were unbelievable. This particular show is centered around local mythology and legend, so it tells a story rather than simply being a skillful demonstration of native dance. The musicians, drummers, and singers were also excellent, and the entire experience was one well worth repeating. I highly recommend it.

Dancing with the dancers. Notice the glistening skin.
Photo by Jo Gade. All rights reserved.

After the show, the dancers joined the spectators for a little social, and Bob and I were each invited to dance by one of the dancers. It was tons of fun, right up until it started being painful. The dancers moved gracefully, their exposed skin a glistening bronze sheen, while we laughed nervously, gasped for air, and awkwardly attempted to cool off by pulling the sweaty fabric away from our sticky, sweaty selves (not too successfully). However, it was a fabulously entertaining thing, and I'd definitely do it again. But maybe I'd wear fewer clothes. Don't tell my mom.

As I mentioned, the dancers were amazing. The professional dancers, that is. By the way, the gorgeous young lady dancing with Bob happened to be Miss South Pacific. How about that? Her name is Christine.

And speaking of Christians (“Christine” meaning “follower of Christ”), the Master of Ceremonies tonight made a point of making sure everyone knew that Rarotonga is a Christian island. There was grace said over the food, “as is traditional here in Rarotonga.” During the cultural tour, which was all about the ancient culture of the island, they started out by saying that the English brought the Gospel to the Cook Islands, for which they are grateful. And so on. How very refreshing. No wonder I feel so at home, at peace, here.

Tomorrow, Sunday, we're going to the church in our neighborhood. We're all looking forward to it, me especially!  

Rarotonga - Getting Around, Eating Well, and Finding Bob

February 18

Maire Nui Tropical Gardens
Photo by Chris.
All rights reserved.

Kia orana!

There are some lovely gardens (Maire Nui Tropical Gardens) a few minutes down the road, and we walked there for breakfast at their little cafe. But it was closed. So, we walked on to Fruits of Rarotonga, where Bob said we'd find delicious and exotic tropical jams and things. But they were closed, too. And so we continued walking on to Muri Beach Resort. So, you can see that it isn't very far from Titikaveka to Muri. But it is a hot, sticky walk. At least, it was today! Don't forget your water bottle, no matter where you're going.

Anyhow, success! The Muri Beach Resort's cafe, Aqua, was open. We sat outside in the shaded patio, to catch a breeze. Harry had the most delicious coconut french toast. I had a bacon, cheese, and banana sandwich (grilled). It's amazing the things that sound good on a menu in the tropics, don't you agree? On paper, I'm with you. It sounds... “interesting.” Surprisingly, though, it was actually quite good. I ate every bite. The crunchiness of the bread, the saltiness of the bacon, the creaminess of the cheese, and the sweetness of the banana made for an “all in one” party for the taste buds. And, naturally, I tried a “flat white” coffee. It's basically a wet (or “white”) cappuccino, for those of you who are unfamiliar with the term, as I was. And it was simply outstanding. It smelled incredible. The flavor was amazing. (We thought it might be coffee from the Cook Island of Atiu, but it was from New Zealand. Good job, Kiwis!) So, now I'm going to be addicted to “flat whites,” I suppose.

Randomly throwing in a photo of the tsunami
escape route. Just so you know it's there.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

The bus runs all the way around the island clockwise, and also counter-clockwise (or, locally, “anti-clockwise”). It comes around every half hour or so, and it's very reasonable. One-way fare is $4NZ, round-trip is $7NZ. Carry some cash. Rather than walking back to Titikaveka, we took the bus back to the house. We actually could have walked back in the amount of time it took to wait for the bus and ride back; however, we might have passed out from the heat and humidity in the process. We thought it wise to avoid that.

When we got home, we went for a snorkel. The water was so refreshing and wonderful. It's just amazing. I heard the strains of the “Adventures in Paradise” theme song again as I floated effortlessly in the calm water, enjoying the world “under the sea.” Uh, oh. By the way, I've been unable to find Nemo. That would be because, apparently, there aren't clown fish here. And if you followed all of that, pop the DVD out and back away from the television. Seriously.

Modeling our wide-brimmed hats.
Photo by Chris.
All rights reserved.

And then I learned how to tie a pareu dress so it looks good...yay! Note to self: When coming here next time, pack two pareus (pareux?), two bathing suits, one skirt, and two tops. And gallons of sunblock. And flip flops, reef shoes, and Keens. And a mask, snorkel, and fins. And a swim shirt (to protect the back and arms from the sun when snorkeling) and swim shorts (to protect the back of the legs). Even underwear is seeing minimal use, since I'm wearing a bathing suit most of the time. So, one to wear, one to dry, and a spare. I packed very “light,” but I haven't worn half of it at all yet. And I wouldn't need to (or so it seems). Don't forget the wide-brimmed hat. I have pins on mine from all the places it has been. Just a little quirk.

Bob was out there somewhere.
Can you spot him? Neither could we.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Bob went for a late afternoon snorkel for a couple of hours. We couldn't see him anywhere and started to wonder if he had drifted off somewhere, and Karen and I went looking for him up and down the beach, then drove to Fruits of Rarotonga, then doubled back over to the (park) beach on the far side of the vacation bungalows on the other side of us. No Bob. But we did meet some very nice folks from New Zealand, one of whom said he could be Bob if need be! He was wearing gear the same color as Bob's, so we called out to him before realizing we had the wrong guy. Oops.

Bob (our Bob, not the “I could be Bob” Bob) did come back, by the way. We needn't have been concerned, as he was wearing his flotation vest (since he was snorkeling alone) and had simply gone all the way to the reef, where he said he saw an amazing array of sea life. He couldn't bear to come back, I guess, until he was too tired to continue! The thing is that there are several places around the island where there's a break in the reef. You don't want to go out with the tide, you know?

Anyhow, one of the young men (He got married here and has been married for two years) actually came by the house a bit later to make sure we'd found Bob. How nice is that? He says he's stayed at “our” house several times (There is just no justice in the world!) and thinks it's the best house on the best snorkel beach on the island. I couldn't agree more.

I haven't mentioned our neighbors much, but we've had an opportunity to chat with them on a number of occasions, and they are friendly and fun. They're leaving to go back to Olympia, Washington (USA), tomorrow. So, some new folks will be moving in for the week. And also into the house behind us, I think, which is too bad but was bound to happen. That house has been empty all week, so the privacy and quiet have been outstanding.

For dinner, we made spaghetti and a salad. Now that we're all better rested and more relaxed, it's really fine. So, note to self: Day 1, breakfast on the way to the house, stop at the grocery store for breakfast/lunch foods for two days, and eat dinner out for two days. Then settle into the cooking routine if you want to. Oh, and get plenty of ice. And do bring your hard liquor (if any) from home. Maybe the prices look different when the dollar is stronger, though.

Photo by Bob Hampton. All rights reserved.

How we're spending our evening: Bob is editing the hundreds of photos that he took today. I think the fact that he's taking so many pictures is making the rest of us a bit lazy about taking our own, but that's okay. He said he will share.

Harry's doing a crossword puzzle, Karen is reading a travel magazine about Rarotonga, Jo is reading her book, I'm writing in my diary, and we're all listening to some tunes. Sounds familiar, eh? Life is so good right now. Breathe slowly. Listen to the sound of the geckos on the ceiling. Watch them hunt for the few bugs that are around. Sigh. I love Rarotonga, and it kills me that our vacation is nearly half over.

I see light from a flashlight in the water. The folks next door must be going on one last night snorkel. It sounds a bit scary to me, but I'm sure it must be very enjoyable, or they wouldn't be doing it again!

I wrote postcards to the folks back home today, as is my habit to do. I'll hope for a place to send them off tomorrow, and then I'll hope they get hoe before I do. That would be a first.

Rarotonga
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

One of my photo-taking frustrations, besides my camera seemingly not adjusting properly to whatever light is out there...bright, dim, overcast...it doesn't matter what. I think I might need a new camera, which is a bummer. Especially considering that I ordered a spare battery for this one (that arrived the day after we left home...naturally). Wait. Where was I? Oh, right. The frustration: Thus far, I have been unable to get a good picture of the peaks. They look so fabulous from the water, where you can see them rising majestically above the palm trees and vegetation. But once you're on land, the vegetation and closeness of everything just makes it very hard to capture the beauty and do justice to it. Perhaps I'll get a postcard for myself, too. [Note: Perhaps it was simply the moisture “fog” on the photo display, or the salty film on the viewer. The pictures, once I was able to really look at them, turned out fine. So, the camera was not in need of replacement, thankfully!]

Full moon in the clouds.
Photo by Chris. All rights reserved.

Tomorrow night, we are going to a Polynesian village tour, dinner, and show. It's supposed to be the best island show in Raro. I hope so! I understand each island group has its own style of dance, which makes sense, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it's done here in the Cooks. Karen says she wants to see the guys with the muscular thighs. I'm sure she is making a joke. Or not?